The Sharp pointy thing with string going through it.
Nothing has made more money for--or caused more frustration to--sewing machine repair technicians than machines brought in with needles that have been improperly selected for the task, been microscopically bent or are dull. Also, think of the inconvenience of lugging your machine to the repair shack and doing without it awhile for what might have simply been the task of changing the needle at home. The following are general, not specific remarks. Always check your machine's manual, etc. etc.
The following is a quote from one of the manuals Bernina uses when it trains its new machine technicians. It points out only one common problem and also shows one of the behind the scenes issues that first time technicians have to learn when they begin their careers. The manual on this particular issue is actually 24 pages long with drawings, photos, and writing--on one thing: needle selection. And we mention "begin" because this is a very complicated skill that requires training and experience. Don't take your upscale machine to someone who hasn't had long, long, and long, hours of formal training. You're not aware that we spend hours learning the ins and outs of this issue. When you come into the store to get needles, there's a reason for our simple questions about what you are sewing.
"Your customer says, “My stitches look bad; they’re crooked on the back side of the fabric”. Or
“My thread keeps breaking”. You ask, “Did you try a new needle?” They say yes.
Is it time to get the mechanic and a big screwdriver? NO, it’s time to ask a few more
questions. Because, although a new needle may be a good idea, just because it’s new doesn’t
necessarily mean it’s the right size or type for this project."
Length and Size of needles are two different things. Size is generally the area around the eye. Length is, well length. Most home machines use needles of the same length. Even most overlocks now use the standard length but until recently that has not always been the case. So, when the clerk asks what size needle you want, he/she is really wanting to know what type of fabric you are going to sew on. Denim requires a larger numerical size than typical cotton, of course. Be careful with this guidance if you have an off brand or really old machine, or a machine you bought from the guy on the street corner who also has great deals on several Rolex watches which he's placed on his checker table. He's always checking the area for "official" visitors like you should always check the manual with your machine.
Believe it or not but needles have parts. Look at it carefully while reading this page. Hold the needle horizontally with the flat side down and the point to the right. Look for these parts:
The flat side and the eye you already know.
On the flat side of the needle and just to the right of the eye you'll see a little indention. (Don't see it? Hold the needle to the light) That is called the "Scarf" and it is essential to making the stitch. Some machines, particularly Singers and less expensive machines need a longer and deeper scarf. Singer makes a needle with a really huge scarf to compensate for the impreciseness of the machine. It's called a "Yellow Band". Don't use this needle in more developed machines. If your Singer is skipping stitches, particularly on knits, then you need this needle. In essence the scarf is the target for the point of the hook, which we'll get to later.
In the front of your needle you'll see a groove. This is an area for thread to hide as it goes into the fabric and gets pinched. You must adjust your needle size to allow the groove to grow or shrink as needed in relation to the size thread you are using.
Opposite the point of the needle is another point. It's not sharp, really more like a mountain crest in a painting. This comes on most standard needles but it's essential to positioning the needle at the correct height, which we'll also get to later.
The point of the needle is usually sharp, ball point, or universal. Universal needles are a little bit ball point and a little bit sharp. They work ok for seaming garments but don't do well with topstitching or buttonholes. The seams won't look straight and the buttonholes will look wobbly instead of crisp and straight. Don't use a ball point on fabrics like woven silk, etc since that point basically jams itself through the fabric. On those fabrics it causes spider webs to radiate from the seam. Sharps are best on all woven fabrics. Knit fabrics always require a ballpoint or stretch needle to avoid runs in the fabric. Lycra fabrics "demand" a stretch needle. The point can get dull quickly even without you noticing it. Other needles have different configurations like hemstitch or leatherwork. These have sharp and expanded edges.
Always use embroidery or metallic needles when embroidering by machine. Change the needle very often. One embroidery design causes the needle to go through the fabric more than sewing a quilt or several garments. The needle dulls quickly and can harm your project and the machine. Dull or bent needles will cause looping on the top of the embroidery.
Change your needle when you start a new garment. The old needle is dull, causing damage. It is also probably bent. You can't see the bend (at least we don't hope it's really that bad". The slight twist affects your machine by causing skips and slight tears in the fabric--which will cause tears in your eyes.
If the following happens ONE TIME then change your needle for your own sake.
The needle hits the presser foot.
The fabric package is so thick the machine bogs down.
The needle hits the zipper.
The needle hits the button.
The needle hits a pin.
You finished a garment or you've sewn for a long time.
A relative or friend comes in to "Patch" something.
Finally, let us say that every weekend that
Mt. Airy, (North Carolina, USA) has a tourist festival we hear some stories over
and over again:
"I'm from XXXXX XXXXXXXXX and I bought a new machine there in 1972 and it's been
so good that I haven't had to change the needle a single time! Fabrics aren't as
good as they used to be though, the seams come apart easily." After
having been in business over 30 years, we've learned who is interested in
learning and who isn't...so sometimes we just return a friendly smile.
